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Bruges crochet lace

I have recently tried Bruges crochet lace for the first time and I absolutely love it. Although simple, it’s endlessly creative when combined with other crochet techniques. The only limit is your own imagination.

Bruges crochet lace was developed as a method of imitating the appearance of a vintage handmade bobbin lace known as “Bruges lace”. Bruges crochet lace is much less complicated than the traditional vintage bobbin lace making technique.

Traditionally, Bruges crochet lace has been made with white cotton and linen thread, but almost any yarn of any colour can be used. Bruges crochet lace is a really easy technique, even for a beginner. The basic ribbon/tape can be used as a simple edging for many projects; such as garments, linens, shawls, scarves, tablecloths and much more.

You can make a simple piece by joining basic strips, or you can make more complex pieces requiring curved turns and arches.

The basic Bruges crochet lace ribbon/tape is a thin crocheted strip, composed of rows of double crochet stitches which can vary from 3 -5 or more, depending on the width of tape required. Each row is separated by a number of turning chains that stand out in arches, which creates a lacy effect, but are also functional connecting links that give the desired shape. The real beauty and creativity of Bruges crochet lace ribbon/tape comes into its own when you add shape to make the lace turn and curve.

This method of creating lace tape is quite simple but the resulting lace is very beautiful, both alone or when combined with other crochet techniques.


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Crochet Mini Shawl – Wrap

The design used to make this shawl was copied form a photograph of a sweater. The shawl is light but warm, and not too fussy. It is suitable for evening wear or informal day wear. The shawl is designed to be worn by someone who is required to be in a sitting position for prolonged periods of time. The advantage is that because the shawl is shorter, your hands and arms are not required to control the fabric. When worn as shown above, the shawl does not slip from the shoulders. However, it can of course be worn by anyone, in many styles, and can be secured with a shawl/scarf pin if desired.

There are many variations on this design. But the particular interest of this version is the fact that the double crochet stitches in the central diamond shaped motif are worked in-between the double crochet stitches of the previous row. Instead of, as is usual, being worked into the top of the stitches of the previous row.

The shawl measures 26 inches wide and 38 inches in length. It is worked in 4 ply machine yarn, approx 325 grms. Colour, light silver grey, using 3.00 crochet hook.

 

 



 
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Posted by on March 23, 2017 in Bed jacket, Blanket, crochet, Shawl, Shrug, Uncategorized, Wrap

 

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Hairpin Lace Crochet Shrug – Bed Jacket

moneyshot

I had the idea for this Shrug/Bed Jacket while sitting up crocheting in bed, with one of my shawls around my shoulders. The shawl felt a little too warm, it continually slipped off my shoulders and the fringe was tangled in my crochet yarn. I needed something that, while protecting my neck and shoulders from any cold draft, would not feel too warm or slip off my shoulders, and most importantly, would not get in the way of my crocheting. A Shrug type Bed Jacket would be ideal and Hairpin Lace would be the perfect technique for this project as the fabric is pretty, lightweight, lacy and works up very quickly.

In my yarn stash, there were 10 balls of unidentified yarn (five balls in variegated shades of white, pink and orange, and five balls in variegated shades of pink, oatmeal and brown). I thought the lighter shaded colours would be perfect for this project. Unfortunately, there is no information on the balls of yarn. I therefore, have no idea of the manufacture or type. It is variegated both in colour and texture, it is a mixture of cotton and man-made fibre, each ball weighs 100 grams and four balls were used to make this project. The finished back length (including rib) is 20 inches and the sleeve length (including rib) is 18 inches.

backview
I had no pattern or instructions for this project. I simply made it up as I went along. I made a swatch of the lace fabric and worked out the whole thing, based upon my height of 5 feet 9 inches. There are no body measurements to consider as this is not a fitted garment. If you are shorter or taller than 5`9”, you can easily vary the size by decreasing or increasing the number and the length of the strips of lace used.

toolshot joiningdetailedview

For the lace fabric: Using a Hairpin loom/Staple of 2.5 inches wide and a 3.50mm crochet hook, I made 11 strips of Hairpin Lace consisting of 156 loops each, working two single crochet in the centre, instead of the normal single crochet to form the lace. Then using the cable join method (which entails slip stitching the loops of one strip through the same number of loops of another – in
this case groups of two loops are cabled together) and a pair of broom stick knitting needles, I joined the 11 strips to make a flat oblong length of fabric.

detailshot

I would normally use a crochet hook to join Hairpin Lace strips however, broom stick needles stop the loops from becoming tangled or being missed, and they also make a flat join.

cuffshot wholeitem

For the sleeve seams: Still using the cable join method, I joined 42 loops on each side at both ends of the length of the lace fabric, leaving 72 loops on each side of the centre of the fabric not joined. The final loop is secured on a stitch holder. I then picked up 56 stitches at the end of each sleeve on four double pointed 3.50mm needles, and knitted 21 rows of K1, P1 rib to form a cuff.

stripshot
For the back: Starting with the loop previously held on the stitch holder, the remaining non-joined loops in the centre of the fabric were finished using the cable edge stitch (which entails inserting the hook into the first two loops of a strip, then drawing the second loop through the first loop in order to slip stitch them together. The second loop remains on the hook. Continue slip stitching each loop one at a time in this manner until the last loop remains on the hook). The final loop was secured on a stitch holder.

completedstrip wholecuffedshot

For the body: Equally, in each loop of the cabled edge starting with the final loop secured on the stitch holder. I evenly picked up 296 stitches on the four double pointed needles and knitted 21 rows of K1, P1 rib to form the body cuff, then weaved all ends.
The finished project looks so pretty, and does the job it was intended to do, perfectly!


 

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