Category Archives: bag

Crochet – Mosaic Crochet

I discovered mosaic crochet approximately five or six weeks ago, I’m now totally hooked!

It is very much like mosaic knitting/slip stitch knitting, but with a crochet hook. In fact, I used mosaic knitting pattern graphs/charts to practice sample swatches when trying to get to grips with the crochet technique. I found that most of the pattern graphs/charts created for mosaic knitting can also be used for mosaic crochet.

I found a very helpful blog which covered everything you need to know to get started:

l have a book called Celtic Charted Designs by Co Spinhoven. I really like most of the designs in the book and wanted to try to adapt one of my favourite designs for use with the mosaic crochet technique.

This design is my first attempt.

I used double knitting acrylic yarn and started the sample swatch using a size 4 mm crochet hook, but I found it quite difficult to control the tension of the work. I changed to a size 5 mm crochet hook and found that using a larger hook produced a good uniform tension.

I also found that most of the mosaic knitting pattern graphs/charts that I tried used one extra stitch at the beginning and end of each row. I choose to use three extra stitches, as this made it easier for me to follow this particular charted design. Given that each row is worked in a different colour, the pattern design on the wrong side of the resulting fabric is always horizontal stripes.

The finished fabric has quite a firm texture and I feel that any future project would benefit from a surrounding border.


Tags: , , , , ,

Crochet Sample Swatch – Interlocking crochet – Double Filet Crochet – Intermeshing Crochet

This is my second design sample swatch that represents one quarter of an overall design. Again, it is intended for a 20×20 inch throw pillow/cushion, and again I am using the technique of double filet crochet/intermeshing crochet. I worked the 2 cell border all around the swatch to ensure I would get an accurate measurement of the inner design. As with the first swatch, working out the design proved to be a lot easier that I had originally thought it would be.

The design has turned out very well. However, I intend to make a small change to the design when I actually work the project, as I think a solid colour border will give the design a better look.

My sample swatch measures 9¼” X 9” (not blocked) I used a crochet hook and DK yarn left over from a previous projects.




Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

Tapestry Crochet 2


Since my first tentative footsteps into the world of tapestry crochet, I have not had the time to further my attempt at mastering the technique. I have done very little about improving on my knowledge of the subject, and I have also not had any practice. I therefore still do not feel proficient enough to attempt a project.

Recently, I came across a new/different twist on the single crochet stitch, called a modified single crochet. It would appear that the main benefit of using this modified stitch is that it allows you to create straight vertical stitches/lines, unlike the regularly single crochet which creates a definite diagonal slant. The finished fabric also has horizontal lines which I’m not quite sure that I like.

The Basic Modified Stitch

My first attempt at tapestry crochet was worked with two different coloured yarns. So for this attempt, I decided to try three different coloured yarns. Unfortunately, although the modified stitch was easy enough to get used to, I found it very difficult to ensure that the carried yarn is not seen. I also got into the most awful tangle with the yarns, which meant a lot of time was wasted de-tangling, and although I haven’t quite managed to banish the chaos yet, the video below was a great help.

These videos are a part of a series of 11 videos called “Tapestry Crochet for Beginners” by I have only seen two of the videos but intend to watch all the others, as I need all the help I can get!


Happy New Year!


Tags: , , ,

Tapestry Crochet


I recently saw a portrait of an obviously much loved granddaughter, worked in tapestry crochet. I was so impressed by the portrait that I decided I would try to master the art. I assumed it would be a very simple matter, but it turned out to be a little more complicated, as there are several ways to produce tapestry crochet.

Normally, tapestry crochet is done with single crochet stitches. However, the slip stitch, half double, and double crochet stitches can also be used.
The yarn not currently being worked is carried inside the stitches, dropped and picked up when needed, and colours are changed before the stitch is completed. When switching between colours, the yarn can become very tangled, and I have yet to find a satisfactory way to deal with this. I just stop periodically and untwist the yarn.
Tighter stitches produce a stiffer fabric with well hidden carried colours, while more loose stitches show the carried colours and produce a fabric with drape.

The Basic Technique:

The fabric produced using single crochet, double crochet, and half double crochet is slightly twisted with slanted design motifs. If you’re right-handed, the fabric/design twists/slants to the right. If you’re left handed, the fabric/design twists/slants to the left. I prefer to use the slip stitch, as the resulting tapestry crochet fabric looks more like fabric woven on a loom, instead of crocheted with a hook.

The swatch below uses both techniques:

Firstly, I worked the design using slip stitch. The edges of the motif are very defined and the motif is relatively straight. I then repeated the design using a normal double crochet stitch. As can clearly be seen, the edges of the motif are less defined and have a definite slant to the right (I’m right-handed).

In my opinion, tapestry crochet is best worked in the round. However, you can obtain the good results when working flat if you cut the yarn at the end of each row and only work on the right side. This of course will mean weaving in an awful lot of ends.

Normally, when working tapestry crochet fabric flat, one row is worked on the right side and the next row is worked on the wrong side. This results in ridged fabric with a rather jagged edged design motif. I found a number of techniques online that claim to combat/correct this, such as crocheting backwards or crocheting one row with the right hand then the next row with the left hand. I cannot comment on the success or failure of these techniques, as I found all of them to be quite impossible to master.

Working tapestry crochet is very additive. Once started, I simply could not put it down. I will continue to practice and try to complete a project when I am sufficiently proficient.





Leave a comment

Posted by on February 26, 2016 in Afghan, bag, Blanket, crochet, Cushion, Throw, Uncategorized


Tags: , ,

Craft Bag – Project Bag – Knitting Basket – Knitting Bag – Intermeshing Crochet – Double Filet Crochet- Interlocking Crochet


Everyone needs a needlework project bag/basket. I don’t mean the basket or box we use to store our scrap yarn and tools….I mean a lovely bag to hold the project we’re currently working on when we move from room to room or even travel away from home (up until now I’ve always carried my work in an old supermarket carrier bag). I thought I’d buy myself a nice new bag, until I saw how expensive they are.

IMG_0240 IMG_0251

I remembered that I had an old needlepoint bag stored in the attic for at least 18 years, which I hoped could be cleaned up and used again. However when I got it down from the attic, it was clearly not usable as the fabric was rotten and torn and the metal pivots were rusted. I was about to throw it away when I decided to take the whole thing apart and remake it. I just love a challenge!


Side B


Side A

I unpicked the old fabric and used it to make paper templates of the body and sides. It almost fell apart while I was doing so. Using the paper templates, I then crocheted fabric into a design remembered from my youth, using the technique of intermeshing -double filet. The most difficult part of this project was choosing which side of the fabric to use as side A. It was the cause of much family discussion!


I also used the paper templates to cut a lining of double thickness to increase the strength of the finished article, as the original was very flimsy. In the original bag, the inner lining was made as a separate bag and attached to the completed outer bag using top stitching. I decided to attach my lining by machine-stitching it to the crocheted fabric, in order to limited its stretchiness and therefore maintain the shape of the completed bag when filled with items.


I sanded all the old varnish from the frame and a family member re-varnished it for me (I have a problem with the smell of varnish) in a lovely walnut colour. At this point, the whole bag could have been sewn/crocheted together, the frame taken apart then threaded through the completed bag, and the frame put back together again. However, as my frame was pretty old, I decided not to take a hammer to it….


…Instead, I threaded the bottom lining and side panels of the bag through the two lower bars of the frame and machine-stitched through all thicknesses of fabric, to limit the travel of the legs when opened. I then stitched the front and back of the bag to the upper two bars of the frame.

IMG_0843 IMG_0862

To finish off, I hand-stitched the lining side seams together then crocheted the sides to the front and back using single crochet stitches. The project bag folds flat when not in use. The fabric design makes it look like an old fashioned carpet bag and I absolutely love it!


Tags: , , , , , , , ,